Tunic Tales
How I found myself making an 8th Century Tunic-2/03
In another life, while in the Navy, I met and became fast friends with a man named Chris Ayres.  At the time I was as wild and crazy as he was, to everyone who met him, grounded, mild mannered and a "straight arrow". 

Chris was married at the time and expecting his first child when he got in a motorcycle accident and road burned his cheeks off (not his face cheeks either!).  Susan, his wife, went into hospital to have Michael and Chris needed someone to change his bandages.  I was most honored to be asked to help.   He always says I am special to him because I have seen his butt.  

We saw each other periodically when we managed to be in the same port, but eventually  lost contact.  Many years later I tracked him down in California only to find we had wandered parallel paths, been married and divorced and remarried, and both of us had developed a passion for history. 

Chris (aka Christian Du Glave) has been in the SCA for many years, and is an accomplished Knight, and Duke of the West Kingdom.  In getting to know Chris again after so many years we realized that we are soul-mates.  But as fate would have it, both he and I were happily married to others and decided that we should become brother and sister.  In that spirit, I, as his wealthy, widowed sister do his special sewing now.  Chris is changing his time period to the 8th century and needed some new tunics.  This is our tale.....
Inspiration Tunics I & II-3/03
The first Tunic we discussed was the coronation tunic of Henry the II.  I told Chris that some day I'd like to take the time to make the trim and put it on a very special, completely handmade tunic like this, but he needed something a little sooner!  We both really liked the offset yoke.  I especially like it because it demonstrates some very interesting ingenuity which confirms my belief that there is a place  for highly authentic, but one of a kind, garments in the re-enactment setting.  (As opposed to just copying something thread for thread from a painting or extant garment). The second picture here is also a tunic belonging to Henry II.  He must have liked these odd necklines.  At first I thought they were the same tunic, but if you look at each photo, you will see that the borders are different. Chris sent me most of these images, but I think they came from the Costumer's Manifesto pages.  The first image is from "The Book of Costume" , Volume I,by Millia Davenport, Crown Publisers, second printing, 1948, page 118.
Inspiration Tunic III
I don't have much information on the Bliaud du Tresor, but I love the neckline on this too.  The shirt I  made to go under the tunic is built more like this; it has four godets in it. It is great for freedom of movement, but I don't like the way the skirt looks.
Inspiration Tunic IV
I also do not have much information on this Tunic: Chainse du Tresor, but what I like about it is the yoke and trim on the upper part of the arm.  I haven't decided whether to put any trim here on Chris's tunic.
Fabric Selections-3/03
I am a consummate fabric whore.  Since I had some dusty plum linen and this fabulous trim lying around waiting for a project, I donated it to the cause.  Chris's colors are black and white, but bless his soul he was willing to try something new.  It takes a real man to wear something called 'dusty plum', and Chris didn't bat an eye.  The silk was something I bought many years ago and just loved, but had little use for.  It really makes the rust color in the trim pop! I wasn't sure how I was going to use it, but as you will see below, I settled on piping to trim the trim with.  The trim is made by Offray, imported from France.  Thank goodness for those 50% coupons from Jo Anne Fabrics!
Initial Rendering-4/17/03
I'm not much of an artist, but I had to convey where I was headed to Chris.  I also am an anal engineer and try to plan everything down to the last nut...but on this I tried to give myself an idea of where I wanted to go, but did a lot of fiddling. I ended up using the silk to make piping to trim the trim and insert in the godet. Someday I will render the finished product, but for now this will do.
Mockup-3/03?
(Picture to come later) Since I didn't have Chris to fit on, I did a mockup which turned into a shirt for him.  I used both the Medieval Tailor's Assistant (One of the sample cotes is almost identical to Chris's chest measurement) and the Sartor system of calculating various measurements based on the few I asked Chris for.  He says it fits very well.  (I haven't seen it, nor do I have pictures, but check back; I am sure he will oblige me with some.)  Through that process Chris was able to tell me he preferred a smaller circular neckline to the boat neckline of the shirt.
Layouts-5/22/03
I fiddled and fussed with the layout.  I did it on paper, I hung it on my husband (who I can't get into a tunic, let alone one made of 'dusty plum linen!).  I really didn't want to screw up the trim layout!   As you can see I tried three panels of trim and two.  I finally settled on two because I didn't want the yoke to get rumpled in Chris's armpits.
Making the Piping-6/8/03
I don't think I have used piping this extensively in anything before.  I thought it would be a real pain to make, but it wasn't at all.  I used a special foot on my machine to make it-not a piping foot, but one used to join two fabric edges together.  I did use my piping foot to insert the piping into the godets.
Applying  the Piping-6/9/03
I applied the piping by hand to all the trim.  I wanted it up really close and tight to the trim and I didn't want a row of stitching to show on the trim.

That's all for now!  Check back for updates.  I am hoping to get this thing done in the  next few days.